RC&D: "The Catalyst for Community Improvement"

                265 Holiday Inn Road, Suite 3 Clarion, PA 16214
                 (814)-226-8160 ext 5  ●  Fax: (814)-226-4521

Overview:

    This booklet is designed to help homeowners in Pennsylvania become aware of the various types of construction damage that could impact their property. Solutions mentioned here are intended for projects that are not hazardous, involve only gentle slopes and disturb the site minimally. This publication also offers helpful hints that allow homeowners to recognize possible problems, where to seek help, and who to contact for further information.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
 

PERMITTING AGENCIES, CODES, & INSPECTIONS

    A number of governmental bodies enforce code restrictions over private properties and dwellings. In addition to federal and state laws and regulations, each county has specific regulations, codes, and departments that enforce standards for electric, water, gas, and cable connections. Zoning regulations may also play a role for homeowners who have unusual pets or livestock or who plan to run a commercial business from their home.

    There may be particular regulatory codes for actions taken around streams, creeks, wetlands and drainages and ordinances that prohibit or control the removal of trees or other vegetation from a particular area. Homeowner associations may also have covenants in force which regulate landscaping or tree removal, fencing, or structure size, shape, and design. A copy of any covenants existing on the property should be part of the purchase closing package.

    Your local county or city development departments should have available lists of code enforcing bodies within their jurisdiction of with whom they work regularly. Your local or county library system should also have a listing of these entities.

    In most cases, regulations do not require using specific methods to meet performance standards. Your are free to select which repair or protection measures to implement. Methods used will vary in their degree of effectiveness, simplicity, permanence, ecological efficiency, and cost. Well designed and implemented measures can be effective in controlling erosion, use space most efficiently, be aesthetically pleasing, and preserve or improve habitat quality. This adds value to your property and to the neighborhood.

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CONSTRUCTION - DAMAGED BUILDING SITES

    Construction damage on the building site is a common, and often unavoidable, project consequence. The best time to control construction damage is before it occurs. This entails pre-construction inventory, planning, and coordination. Unfortunately, you may not have that luxury. By the time you arrive, the damage, much of which may be unseen, may have occurred.

WHAT YOU DON'T SEE

    Some of the damage will be obvious when you first inspect the site, particularly to the vegetation and ground cover. However, your building site could also be suffering from hidden damage that is difficult to detect and expensive to repair. The grading, trenching, tunneling, piling, and excavating of the construction site damages nearby vegetation. It also changes the soil structure and affects the natural drainage system that existed before the site was cleared. Problems that show up months or even years after the site has been occupied probably did not exist before construction began.

NATURE'S WAY

    The natural site, whether forest, pasture, or field, was likely a stable environment with little soil movement or loss. The trees, shrubs, and grasses were well adapted to that unique site. Precipitation soaked into the soils with little runoff except during the most extreme storms. Insects and animals contributed to a natural waste disposal system that turned refuse into soil. This was a relatively balanced system of interactions among soil, vegetation, wildlife, and water.

YOUR BUILDING PROJECT

    Then construction began. The site was likely cleared of most of the vegetation in the immediate area and bulldozed flat where economical. Much of the topsoil may have been removed. A basement may have been excavated; and trenches were dug for the foundation and drains, or for the building pad. Paths were scraped, filled, and compacted to build driveways and walks. Sewer connection trenches were dug or drain fields were laid and septic tanks were placed. Trenches were dug for electric, gas, telephone, and cable lines. Then soil was replaced along the foundation, the basement walls and over bury pits. finally the soil was graded, seeded, mulched with straw or planted with sod, and watered.

WHAT YOU GET

    These construction activities yield a "less than natural" situation. The soils are compacted and displaced, as are the microbes, insects, and wildlife. The natural drainage system has been replaced with something less efficient. There is often little established vegetation for controlling run off and increasing soil percolation. Impervious surfaces like roofs, walkways, or driveways may cover up to 70% of the lot.

    Is it any wonder building-, and home-, have problem-, during and after construction? The following information is designed to help identify, locate, and with a little help, solve some of the problems you may confront.

    This publication is intended as a guide; it does not include all problems you may encounter nor does it provide all the solutions. There is no substitute for expert help in resolving some of the more difficult problems.

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STRUCTURAL OR GROUND FAULTS FROM BLASTING

    Foundation cracks or structural settling may occur in unstable or settling ground, or in areas with extensive mining or construction blasting. Such defects may or may not be caused by blast repercussions, and a search of public notices is a good first step. Blasting in Pennsylvania is regulated under the Clean Streams Law (35 P.S. §§ 691.1 - 691.1001); the Surface Mining Conservation and Reclamation Act (52 P.S. §§1396.1 - 1396.31); The Bituminous and Mine Subsidence and Land Conservation Act ( 52 P.S. §§ 1406.1 - 1406.21); The Coal Refuse Disposal Control Act (52 §§ 30.51 - 30.66); The Non-coal Surface Mining Conservation and Reclamation Act (52 P.S. §§ 3311(a)); and Article XIX-A of The Administrative Code of 1929 (71 P.S. §§ 510.1 - 510.108 and - 520.1 - 520.108).

    Pennsylvania's Erosion and Sediment Pollution Control Program is authorized by and functions under the requirements of the Stormwater Management Act ( Public Law 864, Act No. 167), PA CODE, Title 25, Ch. 92, National Pollution Control. law. The Pennsylvania Department of Conservation of Natural Resources, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) administers the program.

    Blasting operators are required to follow specifications listed in Title 25 of the DEP Program Manual. Blasting is done for different purposes, and each purpose follows a different protocol. Coal strip mine blasting is covered in Title 25, Ch. 87.125 - Surface Mining Coal. Quarry operators follow requirements of Title 25, Ch. 77.562 - Industrial Minerals "Non-Coal". At least thirty days prior to blasting, and depending on the purpose of blasting, the licensed operator must deliver or send a Notice of Blasting to properties within a designated area of the blast zone. The owner or occupant then has the responsibility to request a Pre-Blast Survey. If you receive a Notice of Blasting, it is in your best interest to respond by requesting the inspection. An independent agent, a permittee of the operator, does a pre-blast inventory of the property, including structural integrity and well sampling.

    This is performed at no cost to the person answering the notice and requesting the inventory. If such a notice of blasting was given, and a previous owner performed a preblast inventory, records will indicate such.

    In most cases, blasting does not cause structural damage to buildings. If no pre-blast inventory was requested or performed, blasting cannot be proven as the cause of damage. All blasting, for any purpose, must have a DEP permit. Your district DEP office will be able to tell you whether any permitted blasting occurred, and if the approved blasting plan was followed. If a deviation occurred, the DEP blasting inspector will be able to advise you of your recourse.

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UNDERGROUND CAVITIES

    Sinkholes are an unfortunate but common problem that may occur five to ten years after construction. These holes, or underground cavities, form gradually but can appear in your lawn overnight.

    Underground cavities typically develop where a construction crew buried debris, such as tree branches, brush, stumps, and construction materials. After a few years this buried debris decays, leaving behind a large underground cavity hidden by a relatively thin surface layer of soil and vegetation. The soil layer eventually caves in, causing a sunken area or hole that can seem bottomless.

    If a sinkhole appears in your lawn, inspect it carefully to determine if the problem was caused by buried debris. Enlarge the surface opening so that you can inspect the entire cavity with a flashlight. If you can see traces of decayed trees or building materials, you probably have a trench or pit that was used to bury construction debris. You can confirm your suspicions by probing the bottom and sides of the cavity with a long rod. If you find solid earth on the bottom and sides, the cavity is probably man-made. This can be treated with one of the remedies listed below.

    If you find a pipe in the cavity, a leaky pipe may have caused your problem. The best course of action is to consult the proper water authority before proceeding.

    The cavity may be so large that you cannot reach the sides or the bottom. You may detect water or soft, mucky soil inside. If so, you could have a more serious problem. A private geotechnical or soil consultant should be contracted to inspect the site and recommend a solution.

CONSTRUCTION & TREES

    Trees in good condition, of the right species, and in the right location can contribute up to 20% of a property's value. Before purchasing any building, you should inspect the trees to determine if they have been damaged by construction activities. While it may be extensive, above-ground construction damage to trees seldom causes the whole tree to die. Value loss may still be 100%.

    The more serious problems usually lie underground. Worse, major below ground tree damage may not become obvious to the owner for two or three years. Depending upon the severity of the injury and species of tree, damage may take as long as seven years to become evident.

    Soil compaction often kills trees near construction activity, Therefore, it is important to recognize situations where damage is likely to occur or may have already occurred. Trees at the edge of construction activity are an asset or a liability. They either add value to your home, or they are a problem and cost money to repair. The first step toward assessing the condition of your investment is to understand how trees grow.

HOW TREES GROW

    The natural trees in your yard grew and adapted to much different conditions than exist those existing after construction activity. It is crucial that you assess the damage they may have suffered as soon as possible. The following concepts regarding tree growth will help you understand which trees in your yard may be suffering from construction damage.

    Tree roots may extend outward from the trunk for distances twice the height of the tree or more. Many of the fine absorbing roots eight are smaller than a pencil lead in diameter and may occupy soil beyond the tree crown edge or drip line.

    If construction activity moved into the root zone, you can expect some dieback in the tree's foliage crown. Research has found many trunk frost cracks were actually caused by root damage. More significant damage may cause the tree to die. These conditions may be hazardous if someone or something valuable is likely to be damaged.

    Roots absorb oxygen, water, and other elements for the tree to manufacture it food. In Pennsylvania, soils most of a tree's element-absorbing roots will be located in the upper 18 inches of soil. These roots are seeking oxygen. Soil pore space 12 inches under the surface often decreases to where soil oxygen is below the 10% level needed for tree root growth.

    Adding as little as four inches of soil above the existing surface grade can have the same effect and may suffocate existing roots. On the other hand, excavating the surface soil may remove vital tree root systems.
Branch distribution above ground may not reflect the below ground root distribution.

    The tree's trunk will naturally swell at its base so that you can see the major root collars entering the ground. If you can't see this area, soil was added to the original grade after the tree was planted or the tree was planted too deeply.

    Large buttress roots close to the trunk support most of a tree's weight. A tree having a 10-inch trunk diameter would stand most heavily on the roots within four to six feet of its trunk. Tree roots that grow out farther provide stability against strong winds. If construction activity severed large roots close to the tree, the tree may become structurally unsound.

    Trees do not heal wounds - they seal them inside. When any part of a tree is damaged, the tree will isolate it with chemical reactions and new wood to ward off pathogen or insect attack.

    A tree's roots are often grafted to the roots of nearby trees. When one tree is pushed or pulled from the ground, the roots of adjacent trees are often torn, ripped, and badly damaged. A torn root has a much more difficult time sealing than one which is cleanly cut. Clean cuts do not stress and pull at the rest of the root system as much as wounds made by trenching or dozing or backhoe equipment. The wound from a neat or clean cut is therefore smaller than one associated with a tear.

    Any roots wounded by tearing or exposed to the air should be cleanly pruned or protected. Which to do depends on the root's size in relation to the tree and the extent of damaged root area.

Leaves take elements the roots absorb and manufacture sugars, real tree food, by means of photosynthesis. These nutrients travel from the leaves to the roots through the vascular phloem in the inner bark, which generally lies within 1/8 to 1/2 inch under the protective outer bark. Without inner bark, nutrients cannot be transported to the roots and they, and eventually the tree, die.

    Injured limbs are walled off by the tree's defense system just as roots and  other parts are. If over half  the   foliage on any one limb is damaged, remove the entire limb or prune it back to a lateral limb of at least 1/3 its diameter. A swelling called the branch collar is formed of trunk wood around the base of each lateral limb. This
marks the zone of a tree's defense, and a lateral limb cut should be placed there. Heading cuts removing the parent limb should be placed just above a lateral limb at least 1/3 the parent limb diameter.

    Take special care when inspecting your trees to avoid further damage. If unsure of assessing your tree's condition, you would be wise to call a consulting arborist. The International Society of Arboriculture certifies such expertise, and a list is available on line at http://xvww.isa-arbor.com.  Trees that have a poor survival chance usually have one or more of the following characteristics:

    Bark removed from over 1/3 of the trunk's circumference Bark removed from root collars at the base of the tree Root zone with greater than 40% loss Root systems buried by more than 12 inches of soil over more than 30% to 40% of the root zone Trunks with serious insect or disease problems Trunks with major cavities, or having fungal conks.

HIRING A TREE SERVICE

You may need to hire someone to prune or remove a tree. The following guidelines will help you select the best arborist, or tree specialist, for your needs:

CONSERVING ENERGY WITH TREES

    The trees remaining on a new building site generally fit one of the following categories: bad condition, too many, too few, wrong place, or wrong kind (perhaps more personal preference than sound judgment). Good intentions to preserve as many trees as possible may cause more problems than they solve. While leaving undisturbed natural areas and buffers may be a great idea, their placement in the landscape may not be the most energy efficient. Too few trees can lead to similar problems.

CONFUSED?

    You don't have to plant trees 20 feet tall to have an immediate effect upon your home. Trees measuring 2 inches or less in stem diameter measured at one foot above ground (2-inch caliper) are available and readily transplantable. A tree measuring 2 inches in stem caliper may be 10 feet tall or taller, depending on species and other form variables. Best landscape design considers space overhead, at eye level, and at ground level. There are a variety of trees available with differing heights and crown spread characteristics. don't all have to be mighty oaks or flowering dogwoods.

    Dark colors absorb and retain heat. Light colors reflect it. Use these qualities to help heat your home or help keep it cool.

    Search the literature on xeriscapes (dry landscapes) for landscape methods that are low in required maintenance and water use. Grassy lawns may require relatively high maintenance and much water to remain in good condition.

    Allow trees to work for you. As they grow they appreciate in size and value. You can employ them to save a significant amount of money on your heating and cooling bills. How much? Possibly up to 50% on cooling and up to 15% on heating. Your savings will be specific according to your energy usage. Consider pruning or removing trees as well. The following sections clarify these points.

WINTER

    To benefit from the winter sun's low angle radiation as much sunlight should reach windows, walls and roofs as possible. The east, south, and west sides of the house should be free of winter shade. Depending on your latitude and prevailing winter wind direction, walls also need to be protected from chilling winds. You can plant a buffer of evergreen trees far enough away to avoid casting a shadow on those exposures when the trees reach full height. This will help reduce the heating needs on those sides of the house.

SUMMER

    The summer cooling needs of your home are just the opposite of those in winter heating. Shading the walls,
windows, and roof, particularly on the west side of the house, brings greatest cost savings. This can be accomplished by placing deciduous trees (trees that lose their leaves in winter) so that the shade the house least in winter, yet shade the building most in summer. Shading your air conditioner or heat pump will probably result in immediate savings. Your savings will depend on how much you use your cooling system.

    Trees grow above and below ground. Don't plant them too closely to the home, drive, walkways, utilities, or traffic intersections. As a quick guide, check the mature crown reach or radius of the tree species you intend to plant. Place them at least that far away from structures, power lines, and other trees of similar mature size. For driving visibility, avoid planting trees within 35 feet of street intersections.

HOW TO PROCEED

HAVING DRAINAGE PROBLEMS?

    There are several key indicators of current or potential drainage and water problems around your property. First, check your surveys or plat books for nearby flood plains. If you own land in a flood plain, it is reasonable to expect the area will be inundated with water at some point. Flood plain designators also indicate that hydric soils may be present on your property. These will be gray or blue or black in color, and may smell sulfurous or sour. Hydric soils hold water more readily than other soils. These areas may be muddy, collect water, and be incapable of supporting certain types of vegetation. Structures built in these areas will probably need to comply with specific regulations.

    Check the map for drainage easements. They should be labeled d.e. on the plat map and are usually located along property lines. A drainage easement indicates that water will be flowing across that stretch of land during a rainstorm or other precipitation event. Erosion is usually a common problem along such drainage easements. Permanent buildings and fences should not be constructed in these areas.

    Check for nearby rivers, creeks, and bodies of water that would increase the probability of flooding and indicate the presence of hydric soils. A creek be an attractive feature until you consider conflicts with your planned use. The water flow in your creek will increase as upstream development and construction increases. If you acquire property near a perennial stream, do not remove the vegetation within at least 50 feet of water line levels adjacent to and along the stream bank. This vegetative buffer zone will help maintain the water quality and curb erosion problems.

    Pennsylvania's Erosion and Sediment Pollution Control Program is authorized by and functions under the requirements of the Stormwater Management Act ( Public Law 864, Act No. 167), PA CODE, Title 25, Ch. 92, National Pollution Discharge Elimination System (NPDES). The Pennsylvania Department of Conservation of Natural Resources, Department of Environmental Protection (DEP) administers the regulations set out by the National Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). A person may discharge pollutants from a point source into navigable waterways only under NPDES permitted conditions. Since virtually all waters eventually drain into navigable waterways, even intermittent streams come under this jurisdiction.

    Before the year 2001, any earth movement disturbing one acre in area required giving notice, and work disturbing five acres in area required a permit. Now, any excavation disturbing an acre or more in area probably requires such a permit. Any process or work that increases a presently permitted discharge requires a new permit.

    Pennsylvania DEP regulates the construction and maintenance of filter strips associated with land disturbance within flood plains or within 50 feet of perennial streams. Such authority is mandated in Pennsylvania Code, Title 25, Ch. 102 Erosion Control and Ch. 105 - Dam Safety and Waterway Management as authorized under the Pennsylvania Clean Streams Law, 35 P.S. §691.202 et. seq. An Earth Disturbance permit is required when 25 acres or more in area will be affected during the course of a project. All work must comply with standards set forth in DEP Chapter 102. and DEP Erosion and Sediment Pollution Control Plan Manual. Your county's Conservation District and the Natural Resources Conservation Service will assist you with necessary permits and expertise. Your county Cooperative Extension Service and Conservation District can recommend seeding and planting combinations, rates, and methods.

RUN OFF EROSION

    Erosion due to drainage coming from higher elevations is the most common water problem a property owner faces. The problem is most obvious and most damaging when living downhill from a number of properties. Improperly channeled run off water will damage and devalue of your property. Note your property elevation relative to adjacent properties. Does the land slope? Where will rain water come from and what is in its path? Does it suit your purpose? Check carefully before you buy, if possible.

    Watch to see where run off water flows and exits during a rainstorm. Ideally your home will have sufficient outlets to handle rooftop, driveway, and sheet runoff. Roof water can be piped to a low-impact location such as a drainage easement or creek. Avoid sags in the pipe to ensure downhill flow. This may mean burying the pipe to give it enough "fall". Always ensure that the outlet is open and clear of debris.

    Water flowing over a driveway may be more difficult to handle. If the concentrated flow moves over a relatively flat surface, a permanent vegetative filter strip may suffice. Vegetated filter strips can be used to convey sheet runoff from impervious surfaces to stormwater conveyance devices.

Filter strips are particularly well suited for residential developments and are an effective method for reducing peak runoff rates from roadways and parking areas.

    Establishing a filter strip of grasses, shrubs and trees is the easiest and most effective way to stabilize a moderately sloped drainage area. Planting material can range from lawn turf to complete woodland plantings. Live stakes of woody plantings can be used for quick establishment.

    If the surrounding area is undisturbed, you can check which species occurred naturally and are most successful. If you use those cover types, species, and their natural associates, your chance of success will be greatly enhanced. Consider the shade and sun factors, the soil factors, the soil type and pH, climatic factors, and durability When selecting plants for a particular purpose, Check plant lists of recommended materials for your area. Your County Conservation District or Cooperative Extension office will have considerable resources available. Be sure to select plants that will thrive in your site conditions.

    Vegetative filter or buffer strip width in feet should be calculated as 2 times average percent slope, plus 25 feet. For optimal effectiveness, filter strips should drain relatively small tributary areas. Contributing areas of greater than one acre should be divided into smaller areas with filter strips interspersing impervious surfaces, such as in parking lots.

STRAW BALE BARRIERS AND SILT FENCES

    Straw bale barriers or silt fence barriers are temporary measures. These tools may be used by themselves or in conjunction while establishing other more permanent structures. A straw bale barrier is a row of entrenched and anchored straw bales. A silt fence is a barrier of entrenched geotextile stretched across and attached to supporting posts. Both easily installed methods are limited ways to intercept sediment-laden runoff from small drainage areas. These methods are placed down slope from the construction or disturbance to protect the area below. Both methods may cause their own problems if left in service so long that they fall apart. They may then clog drainages with debris downstream. So, if you use them, be sure to maintain them. Put more permanent measures into service as conditions require.

SWALE

    Grasses, shrubs, and trees control erosion and absorb contaminants, with trees being most effective. However, it takes lime to establish, and may not stand up to erosive forces or traffic sufficiently. if vegetation alone is not the answer, a swale or diversion may help. A swale is a permanent broad depression that can be constructed in your yard to transport water more directly where you want. A swale should be constructed to carry the majority of the water flow. By design, it should be at least 2 feet wide across the top for each acre drained and at least 6 inches deep. Be sure the swale has enough downhill gradient to prevent ponding. Swales should drain into a creek, drainage easement, street, or wooded area.

    The swale surface should be planted with sod and possibly staked in for protection. Specifications for sodding are available in the Pennsylvania State University Agronomy Guide. Further specifications for sodding and other commonly used erosion control measures are available in Pennsylvania Department of Transportation Publication 408, DEP Erosion and Sediment Pollution Control Program Manual Sodding - Section 809, Pages 5.21, 22

    Any area not laid with sod should be seeded and mulched to protect germinating seed. Straw bale barriers or silt fence barriers, may be necessary below the new establishment. Swales should drain into a creek, drainage easement, street, or wooded area.

    Rock is occasionally necessary to protect large swale surfaces from erosion. Rock may also be placed in a structure at the outlet to disperse the force of the water. A sketch is shown below from Best Management Practices for Developing Areas, Section 8, Structural BMPs, Outlet Stabilization Structure. Page 1.

    If the water flows over a steeper grade, vegetation alone may not control the problem. It may be necessary to terrace the area in order to slow down the water. Ideally, shorter slope lengths and flatter slopes should be used to prevent erosion. To do this, you can stair step the area. Each terrace landing wall should be less than two feet high to remain stable. This can be done temporarily by installing timbers or cross-ties. These small walls should be anchored into the earth, tilted back upslope at least 4 inches, and fastened securely with spikes. Steel reinforcing rods (rebar) driven through the ties are usually sufficient. Water vents should drain at the wall, base to prevent washouts from water pressure behind them. Timber walls eventually rot and must be replaced, or allowed to slump naturally as the terrace vegetation becomes established. Other types of walls that can be constructed can be made of rock, brick, or block. While longer lasting, these types require more preparation and are less natural than using vegetation. . Bioretension cross section; bioretension incorporated with a grass swale with mild to moderate slope. 

PONDING WATER

    Water may collect in flat areas or the soil may simply stay saturated for long periods of time. This could be the result of surface depressions that allow ponding, or it may be the result of a high water table. (A water table is the upper surface of ground water, or the level of soil below which the soil particles are saturated with water). Avoid placing a home site where the seasonal high water table is at or near the surface.

    What if surface water stands in ponds on your lawn or flows toward your house? You might construct a swale or your may grade portions of your yard so that surface water drains away from the house or surface depressions. If these measures will not work, an underground drainage pipe system may be necessary. Water enters these underground drainage pipes through drop inlets that 'T' into a horizontal underground pipe. Place these inlets in low areas or depressions where water will collect. The horizontal pipe should be solid and the slope gradient should be constant to assure water flow.

    Perforated drain pipes can be used against foundation walls and basements to collect water or to drain saturated areas. Perforated drain pipe should be at least 4 inches in diameter and be surrounded with 12 inches of gravel. Pipe run gradients should be gentle enough to allow water to enter but provide enough fall to drain readily. Water should be emptied into an existing drainage ditch or curb inlet where possible. Ideally, perforated pipes should be placed 12 to 18 inches below the soil surface to avoid digging into them accidentally.

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STREAM BANK EROSION

    If you have a stream on your property, understanding how streams "behave" and function within the watershed will be crucial to resolving any problems Stream bank stabilization is a collection of vegetative and mechanical methods. Stream bank stabilization protects critical sections of a stream bank where standard vegetative practices are not feasible or are not durable enough to provide permanent protection.

    Streams constantly change, shift, and meander. Stream banks naturally erode as the stream adjusts to changing conditions within the channel and the watershed. Human "interference can accelerate these changes.

    A stream is only a small portion of a watershed. What you do to your stream can impact other plants, animals, and water users in your watershed. The watershed also includes the entire drainage area or basin that collects and channels water into a nearby river or body of water.

    Stream channels support a variety of living plants and organisms according to zones of wetness and turbulence. Mosquitoes and snakes are just as important to the aquatic life cycle as water bugs, fish, and plants. The vegetation adjacent to the stream helps maintain the cool water temperature that is essential to aquatic life.

    If erosion is occurring in your stream, the stream bank is usually impacted most. These stream banks should be stabilized. Stream bank stabilization works by either slowing down the erosive nature of water or by increasing the resistance of the bank to the erosion, or both. If the erosion is natural or caused by upstream development, consider your impact to the entire watershed when you select a solution to your problem. There are three primary methods used for stream stabilization: vegetation, bioengineering, and rock protection (rip-rap).

    Any modifications involving excavation in the floodplain may be subject to regulation under the Clean Water Act, Sections 401 and 404. Proposals for channel modifications, structural installations, or excavation should be presented to the US Army Corps of Engineers for comment. Any encroachments into the floodplain of a perennial stream will also require that you notify the Bureau of Dams and Waterway Management of the PA Department of Environmental Protection, and must comply with provisions of PA Code, Chapter 105.

Bio-engineered projects limited to planting with minimal earth disturbance are less likely to require permits. Consult your local Conservation District to be sure what your project involves.

VEGETATION

    The idea is to establish some sort of cover whose root system will hold the soil in place and reduce the impact of flowing water. There are many methods of establishing this vegetation ranging from hand seeding to planting live stakes to using more engineered solutions. Contact you local Extension Service office or local Conservation District or Natural Resources Conservation Service office to find out what species are recommended for your conditions.

ROCK PROTECTION

    Rock protection involves using rock rip-rap to protect eroding stream banks. Rock rip-rap armors the bank and toe, or footing, of a stream bank. Rip-rap is critical at the toe when the stream bottom is unstable or subject to scouring during flooding. Scouring is the erosive action of water that removes and carries away material from the streambed and banks. Stream banks that are to be stabilized should have a slope no steeper than 1.5:1 (horizontal: vertical). A geotextile, filter fabric, should be used under any rip-rap to provide a uniform foundation for the rock. Rip-rap should extend up the bank to where vegetation will provide adequate protection form erosion. The rock size will depend on the water velocity. For faster water, larger rock is needed. For most streams an average size rock would be about 8 inches in diameter.

BIOENGINEERING

    Bioengineering uses shrubs and trees placed in specific patterns along the stream bank. Structures can be formed with only live stakes. However, fabric, poles, and stone may be incorporated in the design. The resulting live natural structure grows in effectiveness as it establishes and matures. Maintenance becomes a matter of checking for breakage or blowout failures.

    Woody vegetation also reduces the Stream velocity, and absorbs energy from drifting debris. Further, it provides shade to maintain cool water temperatures and creates habitat. This method of stream bank stabilization requires forethought and planning to insure that an effective, long-term cover is established. The Natural Resources Conservation Service and your local Conservation District can provide additional information about bioengineering practices.

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TURF SELECTION & ESTABLISHMENT

    Finally, we deal with turf. Why wait until last?  Turf should be planned for areas of heavy activity or special use, unless it is to be grown naturally. Turf is a relatively high cost, high maintenance treatment, and should not just be installed as the carpet to place the rest of the landscape on.

    Home buyers are seldom given the opportunity to select a turf grass type for their landscape, Usually, the lawn has already been planted through seeding or sodding by the builder. If your home does not have a lawn established or the original planting failed, you will need to make turf selection and establishment decisions. There is no single perfect grass for every situation. A high quality lawn requires a commitment of time and money. There are many environmental and cultural factors that will determine which grass combination is best for your conditions.

    Choosing between a warm or cool season grass is the first decision to make. Warm season grasses do most of their growing and look their best during the war in months of the year (April to September). Warm season grasses such as Bermuda grass, zoysia grass, and centipede grass generally prefer full sun, but some types do relatively well in partial shade. Warm season grasses go dormant and turn brown in cool temperatures as in winter. When kept weed free, dormant warm season lawns can be very attractive. In some areas, St. Augustine grass can also be grown with success. Check with your Cooperative Extension agent or Conservation District to find out if warm season grasses usually perform well in your area.

    Cool season grasses grow best cooler regions or during the cool months of spring and fall. Cool season grasses such as bluegrass will often turn semi-dormant or be injured during severe summer heat. Red fescue is frequently the grass of choice in moderately shaded areas. Fescue is more difficult to maintain during the summer because of watering requirements. Heavy shade produced by trees of the home will cause thinning and poor turf grass performance regardless of the turf type selected. In heavily shaded areas, ground covers will perform better than any grass species. Do some homework around your yard. Study the yard's drainage and how much shade exists. Have your soil analyzed for fertilization and pH recommendations.

    There is no one grass that can "do it all." Grasses are currently being developed that have better cold and drought tolerance, shorter establishment periods, increased disease and insect resistance, and slower growth rates. Your local nursery or extension agent has a wealth of information, knowledge and experience in establishing and maintaining turf grass.

SEEDBED SURFACE PREPARATION